Archive for September, 2013

LFW SS14: Portugal Fashion

September 26th, 2013

Joao Melo Costa and Luis Buchinho

Represented by Blow PR, the two emerging talents Joao Melo Costa and Luis Buchinho presented their SS14 collections in the extraordinary venue, The Portuguese Embassy, Belgrave Square. After a champagne reception, both UK and Portuguese press took to their seats.

Costa was first to show, with a collection “dynamic and tridimesnional” – his London debut. Taking inspiration from a story of change and travel, happiness and fireworks, the first looks were sleek and simple. A neutral colour palette of charcoal grey and all white was interspersed with metallic accents on cuts which were loose yet feminine. Echoing this spirit, the models sported sexy bed hair and minimal make-up with low-key appeal. A palette of brights was then introduced with coral, red and, of course, this season’s pink. Subtle print was seen on oversized tops, loosely tailored trousers and shirts, followed by shimmering embellishment on the third and final phase of the collection.

Showing beneath the chandeliers of the Portuguese Embassy straight after Joao Melo Costa’s show, Buchinho also made his London debut this season, departing from Paris Fashion Week. Femininity was redefined by Luis Buchinho through strong silhouettes, graphic elements, colour blocking and mixing textiles. The looks were timeless and classic, with a contemporary spin in the form of unexpected colour. Jungle and forest greens clashed brilliantly, with azure blue and monochrome seen elsewhere. Both flowing draped designs and structured sharper pieces were presented; the continuity remained in the elegance not the shapes. To complete the look, models’ hair was secured in smooth ponytails by L’Oreal Professionnel, at once chic and modern.

With Costa’s collection providing fresh, summery, seductive yet casual looks, and Buchinho’s offering strong silhouettes for the aspirational women, here are two very different designers which London will be sure to see more of next season.

Words by Tess Pollard.

@tessstam

tesspollard.tumblr.com

Pictures taken from: http://idolmag.co.uk/

 

LFW SS14: Tom Ford

September 26th, 2013

LFW SS14: Tom Ford

We all know that Tom Ford is one of the biggest designers of the moment. Since the Jay Z song ‘Tom Ford’, from his recent album Magna Carter Holy Grail, Tom Ford’s stardom has been cemented. Those that don’t already follow fashion have trusted the rap genius Jay Z, since the rapper’s statement ‘I rock Tom Ford.’ Well, it’s not just a big hype because of a rap artist. Tom Ford really does make some of the most up to date, glamorous and sexy collections.

 

This year at London Fashion Week a range of A-listers attended the show such as Vogue Editor Anna Wintour and actor Colin Firth. He had already wowed the audience with the set before the collection had even appeared. The walls were mirrored and the catwalk lit by spotlights. Ford wanted to portray a powerful woman on the runway, with glowing summer faces and tied back hair.

Dresses came down the runway almost replicating different colour disco balls, clinging to the tall models and some dresses seductively sitting at the top of the thighs.

 

Many of the jackets were structured with big shoulders, making the women look empowering with lace up high black heels. One of our favourite outfits was the slightly masculine black two piece suit that was satin from the waist down. It was a twist on the usual black suit and would look great for work or out into the town.

 

Ford presented a matching leather snakeskin textured dress and jacket, both in white and brown, which we thought would be great to keep warm on the cooler summer days. The way the light from the mirrors on the dresses reflected in the mirrors on the walls made the room look spectacular and the glamorous feel was present throughout the show. Fashion Mode loved this dazzling show. Tom Ford makes clothes fit for stars.

 

Words by Madelaine Diamond

Photos taken from www.Vogue.co.uk

 

LFW SS14: Alessia Prekop

September 26th, 2013

Slicked back hair, neon bright eyebrows and purple lips – on day two of London Fashion Week, Alessia Prekop’s self-titled SS14 collection hit the Fashion Scout runway on models as striking as their outfits.

The contemporary womenswear designer takes inspiration from modern architecture and edgy street style, the latter reinforced by the soundtrack of fierce, heavy beats throughout the show. Prekop’s signature soon became apparent; an appreciation of exaggerated silhouettes, luxe casual-wear and unconventional geometry.

The colour palette of choice revolved around powdery pastel shades of pink and lilac with outlines in black and cream. The prettiness of the defining colour scheme was juxtaposed with androgynous cocoon shapes, contrasting clean lines and grunge infused leather panelling on selected garments. A high level of craftsmanship was evident in every piece, which Fashion Mode were pleased to learn is due to the entire collection being made in England. Each look had attitude, from the precision pleats on oversized jackets to half wet-look fitted straight leg trousers, via daring flesh baring ensembles with peplum tops in romantic peach.

Materials ranged from raffia, silk and wool crepe, all with alternative luxury detailing such as exposed seams and ruched elements. We also spied interesting jewellery pieces giving added personality including single triangular droplet earrings and stacked rings. We thoroughly enjoyed the dynamic and multi-layered showcase.

Words by Tess Pollard.

@tessstam

tesspollard.tumblr.com

Photos taken from http://thefashionscoutsept09.blogspot.co.uk/

 

LFW SS14: J.W Anderson

September 26th, 2013

LFW SS14: J.W Anderson

This year, one of the most creative collections had to be J.W Anderson. The young British designer is only 26 years old and has already had a collaboration with Topshop. His use of a vast range of materials and experimenting with layering in a way that we’ve not seen before made him stand out from the rest this year.

 

Starting with a white mesh dress that didn’t just come in at the waist but at five different sections of the body. The silhouette of this design is just one example of the eccentric designs Anderson presented. There was a slightly clinical feel to this dress as it appeared like a full-suit, body protector. However, it was the pepulum style top that added a feminine side to it.

Experimenting with layering, Anderson tied giant knots around the waist from what seemed to be created by jumper sleeves. Jumpers were also used in a unique way by sitting around the neck but away from the body, an alternative to tying the sleeves around your neck like sailors sometimes do.

It is clear that Anderson wanted to make his designs asymmetrical from the skirts and tops that have a ragged cut.

 

Something that really stood out was a leather two-piece skirt and top that had an interesting shoulder structure, almost replicating the silhouette of a cobra snake.

The accessories were minimal with the exception of bags, one bag in particular which apparently was inspired by the vision of seeing girls ‘putting the bin bags out’. This black bag scrunched up at the top quite literally did replicate a bin bag, however he also presented the same bag in white that looked clean and sophisticated.

The models wore their hair back in a neat low pony tale and very minimal makeup in order to keep eyes on the collection.

 

The thing about this collection is that while some people might just ‘not get it’, it is refreshing for us to see Anderson turn something quite basic (like a navy jumper) into a creative masterpiece that will work on people that really want to stand out from the crowd and look professional at the same time.

 

Words by Madelaine Diamond

 

Pictures taken from www.vogue.co.uk

LFW SS14: John Rocha

September 26th, 2013

LFW SS14: John Rocha

John Rocha, originally from Hong Kong but living in Dublin for over 20 years, presented his collection at London Fashion Week this year. His designs were extremely detailed and the materials as usual were of the highest quality.

 

This year at London Fashion Week, Rocha presented a beautiful show full of couture pieces. The dresses were beautifully feminine and amazingly flattering on the body. Many of the dresses were extravagant, with wide skirts that contrasted the slim waist. The collection had a romantic feel to it, with the first dress in white and covered in rose petals. The dress was matched with the same patterned wide brim hat and looked fit for the royal family.

While many of the outfits were modest and covered much of the body they were made ready for summer with the lightest materials such as mesh and sheer. Some of the detailing appeared to be thick embroidery that almost looked like straws wound around the body, the detailing was flawless and we can’t even imagine the time and effort taken to make these dresses.

Some of the tighter dresses gave the models a flattering and sexy silhouette whilst the material and patterns kept them sophisticated and ready for the red carpet.

The models looked lovely, with wet-look slicked back hair, curled at the ends and minimal makeup with just a rich touch of silver eye shadow on the eyelids.

 

The collection was extravagant and elegant, made for a strong-minded and powerful woman. John Rocha’s collection was filled with dresses you would envy and pieces that we all would dream of wearing!

 

Words by Madelaine Diamond

Picture taken from http://www.vogue.co.uk/

 

 

 

 

LFW SS14: PING HE

September 20th, 2013

With an audience full of bloggers and celebrities such as Laura Whitmore and Poppy Delevingne we sat down to watch PING HE’s feminine but sharp cutting designs and edgy looks.

Having only been an independent label since 2011, she launched her second full collection for Spring/Summer 2014 at London Fashion Week. The collection was made up of  tough leathers with broderie anglaise detail to create elegant contrast. A great majority of the collection was monochrome with hints of colour, leading back to the ideology of the PING HE woma. Desirable, strong and respected by the male species. PING HE presented the models in a Halloween-esque way with ghostly white make-up contrasting black lips. Hair was scraped back and high above the head with white or black streaks to give a real sense of empowerment.

Ping He tries to customise each piece with her signature stamp. Our favorites were the white waistcoat with detachable leather peplum, and a strapless mini dress with peek-a-boo pockets and cut out detailing emerging from below the hemline. Each piece has a unique feature that has elevated PING HE above many of her peers.  We particularly loved the PING HE designed shoes – Perspex kitten heels and a silver block heel.

The great thing about this collection was the sense of mystery behind it. The models played their part in portraying the role of this powerful but graceful woman and the ending violin music added tension to the show and a sense of curiousness. Overall a great atmosphere and a unique collection.

Words by Madelaine Diamond

LFW SS14: Fashion Scout’s Graduate Showcase

September 20th, 2013

The Graduate Showcase is renowned for discovering the best up and coming talent from design graduates across the UK, and this season it did not disappoint.  10 designers were selected from over 300 graduate shows. The final line up included: Angus Chiang, Carrie-Ann Stein, Jamiee McKenna, Lauren Smith, Maiko Takeda, Min Wu, Sadie Williams, Sasha Nassar and Xiao Li.

Our favorites were Sadie Williams with her amazing embellished dresses. Sharp  silhouettes were adorned with subtle Aztec embellishment. Also, Xiao Li and her over-sized pastel knitwear which was just adorable! And finally, Min Wu from the London College of Fashion, who we grabbed for a quick post show chat.  Wu explained her inspiration was the Artist Anthony McCall and his ‘Solid Light’ work. This inspiration can be seen on the detailing of the dresses, which echo the lasers seen in McCall’s work.  Wu expressed how excited she is to get started on her next collection and we wish her all the best!

Words by Elly Hancock

LFW SS14: Yulia Kondranina

September 18th, 2013

Yulia Kondranina –Winner of Fashion Scout’s Merit Award

Yulia Kondranina made her debut at London & Paris Fashion Week back in February this year where she was branded ‘One to watch’. Her intricate techniques and beautiful hand crafted weaving skills helped make her this seasons Merit Award winner. The Merit Award winner is given £25,000 over three seasons, to put towards sponsored catwalk show and exhibition space at Fashion Scout during London Fashion Week.

Her collection was very subtle; Yulia refrained from using bold colours and instead, kept safe with black, white, maroon and navy blue. The cleverly woven collection and the ‘one size’ style dresses resembled those from ancient history, creating a simple but strong statement

We sense that Yulia wants the woman in her clothes to be unique and daring. As we looked closely at the models they were seen wearing a luminous healthy skin toned foundation, minimal make-up and messy ‘Cara’ eyebrows for full definition of the face.

Yulia has a great deal of craftsmanship; she also possesses a great talent in using fringe to her advantage. She has cleverly made an entire dress from fringe that hangs and looks stunning on, she also added fringe to oversized jackets and jumpers to add a kind of smart-hippy edge. The fringe just screams out to us and gets our attention immediately.

This being her second showcase at London Fashion Week, Yulia received much support from many creative’s who couldn’t wait to see her fresh designs. We love Yulia’s designs and can just see more and more fringe being worn by all the brave fashionistas.

Words by Madelaine Diamond

 

LFW SS14: Kilian Kerner

September 18th, 2013

Friday 13th can be unlucky for some but this time it was lucky for us who were blessed with the beautiful shows from London Fashion Week. It’s the one time of year that fashionistas are allowed out from beneath their sewing machines and hectic schedules and are seen everywhere sporting their unique style and quirky ways.

Starting on Friday we were buzzing around London with a few dozen shows to witness.  Fashion Mode managed to get the inside scoop for you, bringing you the best collections of 2013.

German designer Kilian Kerner dazzled his audience with a jaw dropping showcase. The presentation included live models interspersed with Mannequins which allowed us to get close to every angle and defined detail in order to truly appreciate his work.

Kerner started his career printing The Rolling Stones band on an inside out t-shirt from H&M, which drew to the attention of singer Nena, and one and a half years later Kilian Kerner founded his eponymous label.  Returning with his 16th collection, 10th year at LFW and introducing a second line retailing in 14 countries worldwide has made Kilian Kerner the success he is today and by the looks of this new collection, we can understand why.

Within Kilian Kerner’s Spring/ Summer 2014 collection he incorporates various patterns, colours and cuts making every single piece individual. The centre piece was a strong gold and white ensemble which really held its own. Gold, white and black were present through the majority of the collection with flashes of burnt orange, purple and blue. One dress that stood out to us was a full length, shoulder-padded dress; it was stunning. With the mix of light pastel colours that blended together in an unconventional way. Gold was used throughout to accentuate the designs on the dresses; circles and leaves.

Akkesoir Jewellery (Berlin) was placed upon some of the models to glam up a few items. Our favourite piece was a Victorian style diamond and pearl necklace that defined the low back V cut whilst maintaining a beautiful pearl chucker from the front view.

One of the more modern looks included a gorgeous cream and gold floor length dress which had a slight rock and roll twist due to the addition of a biker style sleeveless jacket. The subsequent layered affect gave a casual edge to the couture dress. Kilian Kerner had a collection full of quality pieces, with a demure touch. Outfits were striking but subtle and beautifully detailed. Kerner certainly started off London Fashion Week to a high standard.

 

Words by Madelaine Diamond

New York Fashion Week SS14 Alexander Wang

September 12th, 2013

As New York Fashion Week comes to a close and in our overwhelming excitement for the upcoming SS14 London Fashion Week, we thought we’d take a look at some of the designers from the shows at New York Fashion Week.

One of the first to begin New York Fashion week was the brilliant Alexander Wang, with his flawlessly tailored and cool pieces looking to be must haves for 2014.

With an audience such as Kanye West, Solange Knowles and Miguel, and models from Georgia Jagger to Erin Wasson and Joan Smalls, the show was already thriving with talent.

Alexander Wang always expresses the need for trendy yet luxury work-wear in his collections, with wonderful tailoring and magnificent materials all round.

The show was presented with futuristic and geometric white framing in the background and a feel for monochrome with the rest of the runway all black.

Models wore minimal makeup with the attention completely focused on the outfits. Many of the pieces, particularly the dresses, had geometric shapes and at times looked quite clinical with pastel blues and pinks. We were interested to see slouched three quarter length trousers, hanging effortlessly from the hips that we imagine will look great on a professional yet relaxed woman about town.

An interesting take on the average turtle neck were shirts that had a slightly vicar-ish feel yet with a playful touch as it was cropped above belly button.

Wangs take on the turtle neck was made charming with pastel shirts with only the top button up, an interesting and unique take on the professional shirt. Taking casual work-wear to the next level Wang mixed big pastel boxer-pant style shorts and oversized pockets with matching shirts. While pastels were used pretty continuously throughout the show, Wang daringly produced a double-breasted grey coat, proving that winter coats can be grey without looking dreary, simply by pairing the pastel pieces underneath.

While some may find his designs a little too risqué for the office, we believe you could take items from the collection and pair them to match your own personal attitude and style.

Highlights of the Alexander Wang show:

– Pastels

– Pieces remained smart yet fun

– Pastel, patent heels prominent throughout

– Wang’s toddler niece attending the show, stealing the limelight and reportedly demanding ‘no pictures, no pictures’ backstage. Adorbs!

Did you see the Alexander Wang show? Were you as pleasantly surprised as us?

Stay tuned for up coming reviews on SS14 London Fashion Week shows.

 

Words by Madelaine Diamond

Photo Credit: Lloyd McAlister